CHARLTON — When he bought Dresser Hill Ice Cream more than a year ago, Michael Madulka promised to shine it up and reopen it soon, but it seems he didn't know just how much tarnish needed polishing.

The latest from Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams sounds pretty traditional until you work your way down to No. 5 on the ingredients list. Milk. Cream. Fruit purees and concentrates. Cane sugar. And ...